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Wedgie

5.10b/c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 18 votes
FA: Steve Jones, Cathy Crooks - 1993
Tennessee > Foster Falls > Jimmywood
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Description

A tough little short route, Wedgie can be eased off a bit by going slightly left of the bolt line (5.9 variation). The route can also be done on toprope by leading Wet Willie and making an easy traverse left to the Wedgie anchors.

From the ledge, fairly easy climbing will get you to the first bolt. A tricky sidepull sequence leads to thin climbing past two more bolts to the top.

This route has now been retrobolted by Darryl Bornhop with permission from Steve. From the chains, it has been extended to the top finished with a beautiful sequence of overhanging, traversy moves, a full 30 meters!

Location

Jimmywood area; starts just left of Wet Willie.

Protection

Three bolts, bolted anchors. The retro-bolt extension continues with more bolts above.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route locations, up to the original short anchors
[Hide Photo] Route locations, up to the original short anchors