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Routes in Old Aid Wall aka Upper Echelon Wall

Dark Pony S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dream of Poudre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Folsom Flute S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Girl Problems S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moose Knuckles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
O.D.K. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinklebear S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shoulda Coulda S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tailspin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tamed Donkeys S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Peavy and Peters
Page Views: 4,192 total, 45/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Keeping with the wall's theme, this line starts with a boulder problem, leading into more pumpy fun climbing. The boulder problem is over at the third bolt (a 13b variation heads right here). The climbing eases into the 11 range until another sting before the slab. Doesn't completely ease off through the long slab. The initial crux is harder for those less than about 6'.

Location

Climb near the center of the wall, three bolted lines right of Moose Knuckles, climbing on and left of a black water streak.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors. 60m rope and watch your ends.

Photos

Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
This is one of the best sport routes I've done in the Front Range. At 5'7", this route has big, powerful moves one after another until the upper slab. There's great shakes throughout, but that upper crux is hard with a pump! The route feels harder than any 12d I've done and/or been on. Regardless of grade, it's quality all the way! Aug 19, 2017
Will Winham
Fort Collins, CO
 
Will Winham   Fort Collins, CO
 
This line is fantastic. Do the big move from the glued-on block to straighten out the line and add value. I agree with Skyler that being tall makes this feel a little easier, since I could keep my foot on the aforementioned block (12c). But easily my favorite on the wall (despite the glue). Get after it!
W. Jul 2, 2015
Skyler B
Fort Collins, CO
Skyler B   Fort Collins, CO
Super great line! Cool, little, initial boulder problem to a pumpy top, in my opinion! Felt a little easy for the grade of 12d, but that might be due to my height. Sweet line, if you're up at the Ech, get on it! Mar 21, 2015
Elijah Flenner
  5.12d
Elijah Flenner  
  5.12d
This one feels significantly harder than the other 12s on the wall, including Pinklebear. I want to give it 13a but don't have enough experience at that grade to know for sure. Thus, I will go with hard 12d until I know better. Great climb.

Edit: I am going to stick with 12d and not 13a. May 29, 2013
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12d
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12d
Perhaps the best route on a stacked wall. One of the best in the canyon! Feb 17, 2011