Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
Routes in Shocking Awe
|Bluebeard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||608 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Spencer Weiler on Apr 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionIf you are tired of the crowds and grease of Fucodial and Betagraph, this 3 pitch sport climb might suit you. While the approach is somewhat horrible, the position and solitude are unmatched for Logan sport climbing.
The climb ascends the dark, purplish water streak to the top of the blocky tower that is easily distinguished from the road.
The first pitch starts on the arete to the right of some loose overhanging rock. Scramble up 10 feet onto a slanting dirt ledge to start and belay.
Pitch 1: 5.11c. Climb out right to reach the hidden first bolt, then up the face(out of sight of belayer) up 5 or 6 bolts to a good ledge. One more bolt past a fun roof move on crimps gains the first set of anchors. Not really cruxy, but somewhat devious and sustained.
Pitch 2: 5.9. Climb up and slightly left on easy terrain past 7 or more bolts, ending again after passing a roof with a bolt overhead onto a fat ledge with bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.10d. Balance up the slab past 3 bolts(thin), then head up right onto the textured, exposed arete to the top of the tower.
Pitches 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 could be combined(15 draws needed) easily, though both ledges make stopping convenient.