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Routes in 2 - Wood Hood

Hand of God, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Inside/Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Jammin' for Jehova' T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smearing for Jesus T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Topographic Ocean T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Lips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weak Stick, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Yellow Fin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mark Bauer and Ryan Curry
Page Views: 828 total, 9/month
Shared By: Milton Mugambe on Apr 19, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This strenuous climb is located one pitch up, around the corner, and to the left of the start of Smearing for Jesus.From the bolted anchor below the slab, climb up and left, utilizing a nice pine tree for an anchor.Follow a leaning crack system on the steep, west facing side wall of the bolted slab. A few stacked blocks above the starting crack, and a bit of filth in the initial right-facing corner, guard the clean leaning crack above. Climb up past loose rock and into the corner above. Grind up the sustained crack to the communal chain anchor of Inside/Out and Smearing for Jesus. Robust for the grade.

Location

Jammin' for Jehova' is located one pitch up and is best approached by climbing Weak Stick(5.8). Rappel from the shared chain anchors at the top of the climb left, to the west, into the sandy, rocky gully that rises above the attractive, x-mas tree-like pine. Carefully downclimb to the anchors below the slab route and rappel 118 feet to the base area of The Wood Hood.

Protection

Cams 1" to 3" (2)each 1" to 1 1/2"

Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
  5.10a
I agree with the Colonel. Keep moving up past the tree to the base of the climb at a nice sandy ledge. You can set a few smallish pieces there. Be care moving up past the Weak Stick anchor, there is a lot of loose rocks. As well, be careful getting into the crack initially, it's a steep pull over on stacked blocks that will smoosh your partner if set loose. After a few dirty moves the jamming goodness begins! Nov 12, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I wouldn't belay off that pine tree, it's a bit too bushy with jabbity needles. We set an anchor directly below the start. As mentioned, it's a bit junky starting the climb, but then you pull into the left leaning crack and it's jam after glorious jam. Strenuous though, as the man says. Great stuff!

The only problem is I kept going up the formation instead of taking a right at the end of the tasty crack climbing (where I can only assume the anchors are) and trended into basically 4th class terrain. I missed the anchors completely. Instead, I got a 180' or so pitch in.

We ended up scrambling directly down (not down the way we'd come) a ways to get off, and then slung a solid tree (I left a bootied biner and two shoulder length slings). It's a one rope rappel using a 70m (but a 60m would also work, you'd just scramble a bit more) to then scramble down to the first Smearing for Jesus anchors.

There are some truly wild looking cracks up there, I can't wait till the new guidebook comes out! Oct 27, 2012