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> Highway 62 Crags
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> Mother of All Spires…
Mother of All Spires
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Mother of All Spires Area
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Mother of All Spires T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Daniels & Beth Renn, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 1,230 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on Apr 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This rather large spire has the longest approach of any climb that I know of in the Park. The approach takes between 2 and 3 hours. This spire can be seen from the main highway as the black spire way up on the hillside to the south, as you head east just past the Indian Cove Entrance Rd. The route climbs up cracks and flakes on the south side of the spire.
Protection
Mostly medium to large cams. When we climbed this spire, we saw evidence that someone had attemped to drill an anchor on the summit, but had never finished the job. We placed two bolts on the summit, so you could safely get off the spire. I believe that Kevin Daniels and Tony Sartin may also have climbed this spire from the Queen Mountain side, but other than that, I have no information on this spire or any ascents of this spire.
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