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Routes in Mother of All Spires Area

Mother of All Spires T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Daniels & Beth Renn, 1995
Page Views: 508 total · 5/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 18, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This rather large spire has the longest approach of any climb that I know of in the Park. The approach takes between 2 and 3 hours. This spire can be seen from the main highway as the black spire way up on the hillside to the south, as you head east just past the Indian Cove Entrance Rd. The route climbs up cracks and flakes on the south side of the spire.


The route is on the south side of the spire. There are 2 bolts on the summit to rap from.


Mostly medium to large cams. When we climbed this spire, we saw evidence that someone had attemped to drill an anchor on the summit, but had never finished the job. We placed two bolts on the summit, so you could safely get off the spire. I believe that Kevin Daniels and Tony Sartin may also have climbed this spire from the Queen Mountain side, but other than that, I have no information on this spire or any ascents of this spire.


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
We saw the attempted drilled anchor....we put in a bomber one....That was one hell of a hike...did NOT see the rock art on the way in...wish I would have. Thanks for the spire WAY out there....WAY...... May 22, 2010

beth and i did climb that tower in 94 or 95. i tried to drill a bolt but my hand drill was bunk. i saw it while descending from walts rocks into the valley. have you seen the rock art ( the big panel ) on the way down to 49 palms oasis ?

KD May 22, 2010

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