Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,788 total · 19/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

In between Makayla's Climb and Suds are two relatively new, well protected moderate routes. This is the left of the two.

The climb starts on juggy terrain which becomes distinctly thinner starting at the third bolt. Probably a touch soft for a Yosemite 5.8, and surprising well protected.

I'm unsure of the FA details and the actual rating of this climb (someone who sounded like they knew what they were doing told me 5.8) . Any information would be appreciated.

Location

The first bolted route to the right of Makayla's Climb. Look for 4 bolts on a featured face.

Protection

4 bolts to chains

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7
RE: .10c I thought that 2nd pitch felt hard!

There is an old line in the Reid guide that takes a line up Makayla's (or even the next line of bolts left, which is a bit easier) that also goes to the 2nd pitch via a 5.8 corner further left than the .10c variation. I haven't climbed the upper part of this but Reid calls it 5.8.

There is also a line a little to the right of Suds that is also really fun. Starts with bolts then goes into a nice lieback corner then ends with bolts on a corner/face. It shares the same anchor. The top felt harder than Suds. I got the following information from Clint Cummins' site:
"390. Kiddie Corner 5.9 *, 25' R of Suds, 10x, gear to 3", to anchor chains on right" Feb 23, 2012
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
I agree with Mark on the placement of this line relative to Makayla's and Suds. The bottom "5.8" section is quite easy for Yosemite. You can rap from the second set of anchors above the 10c "second pitch" with a 70m - just barely, thanks to rope stretch (you can also rap twice with a 60m to the intermediate anchor). Be careful if you top rope the full length of the climb from the ground and be sure to tie in to both ends of the rope! Feb 12, 2012
Christopher Van Leuven's "Supertopo - Sport Climbs and Top Ropes" book from 2010 lists a 5.8 called More Mental than Mantel, aka Mantel Illness just right of Makayla's Climb and left of Suds. Clint's website lists this climb as having seven bolts with grey camo hangers. It also has a second pitch with 3 bolts and gear at 10c. FA Dan and Sue Mcdevitt 2000's. Do not know if this is the Unknown 5.8 or not. This info was retrieved from:

stanford.edu/~clint/yos/YOS… Dec 21, 2011
Tyler Alves
Sacramento, CA
Tyler Alves   Sacramento, CA
If it is the same one im thinking of, it seemed much easier than 5.8. Or since there are different sized knobs everywhere, it can be as easy or hard as you want. Dec 21, 2011

More About Unknown (5.8?)

Printer-Friendly Guide