Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Harrison Shull, Bruce Burgess, Pascal Robert - 2001
Page Views: 873 total · 8/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Very cool edging on this slightly less than vert. face climb.

P1: Climb up over flakes and a piece or two to a bolt. Make a hard move here gaining a shallow corner and some techie gear. Move up the corner moving left from the corner clipping a bolt and then gaining a two bolt belay on a nice stance. 5.11a, 70'

P2: Move up and right from the belay heading for a bolt. It is rumored that there are tri-cam placements before the bolt but I must have missed them. If you miss them its a long way to the first bolt. Climb incredible horizontal edges past 5 bolts to gain a double bolted belay. A #2 Camalot is helpful before gaining the belay. 5.10c, 100'

Location

Approach brings one out at Carboman, head up the hill passing a drainage pool. Next route up from drainage. About 50 yds from Carboman.
Rap the route with two 60s

Protection

Single rack up to #2 Camalot. Full set stoppers.
QD's and a few long runners. Both pitches have bolted anchors.

Photos

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Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Pascal is a Frenchie, no 's' at the end of his name. Apr 18, 2010
On the 2nd pitch, the first tricam is a brown just up and right of the belay. Placement orientation is crucial. The tip down and rails up. Another 15ft up is a #2 or maybe 2.5 place in the same orientation. Nov 26, 2013