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You'll Poke Your Eye Out

5.7, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 1 from 3 votes
FA: Jim Erickson, Rebecca Manley (April 10, 2010)
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start at the base of the square overhang and head up the middle underneath, then pull the great jug out left and gain the ledge shared by the little tree. The crux of the climb could be negotiating the tree without injury, hence the name of the route. Pass the tree and start up the finger crack behind and to the right using the crack and small face holds on the left with some bigger ones around the arete and to the right. There is a pretty big and solid block at the top that can be used to build an anchor. Descend via the "downclimb gully" to the left of the route.

Location

Route starts about 10 feet to the right of the "downclimb gully" or about 10 feet left of "Jupiter" in the Dead On Arrival Area of the ridge. Look for a large square dihedral that has a small tree to the left about halfway up the wall.

Protection

Small nuts and cams to finger size, a sling for the tree. Some long slings and bigger cams for the anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eddie cruising the last couple of feet. Note the large block making up the last foot or so of crack is no longer there, it fell out!
[Hide Photo] Eddie cruising the last couple of feet. Note the large block making up the last foot or so of crack is no longer there, it fell out!
Route starts in the corner on the right, heads left under the overhang, past the tree and up right in a finger crack behind  and right of the tree.
[Hide Photo] Route starts in the corner on the right, heads left under the overhang, past the tree and up right in a finger crack behind and right of the tree.