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Routes in Warm Up Cave

Ab Master V6 7A
Cave Overhang V4 6B
Cave Roof V3 6A
Cave Warm Up V0 4
Clutch V8 7B
Clutch Dimension V8 7B
Fresh Bagel V10 7C+
Full Throttle V8 7B
Gassed Off V8 7B
Gassed On V8-9 7B+
Jacked Bagel V7 7A+
Jacked Bagel (sit) V9 7C
Neil's Lunge V4- 6B
New Dimension V7 7A+
New Direction V3 6A
Northwest Passage, The V8 7B
Rump to Jump V7 7A+
Shoot to Kill V11 8A
Shoot to Maim V10 7C+
Soft Clutch V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ward Smith - early '90s
Page Views: 1,499 total, 16/month
Shared By: tscupp on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

The indirect sit start to Neil's Lunge.

Start on ok crimps down low and to the right of cave overhang. Make your way up and right on cool looking undercling flakes and make the difficult transition into the left facing flake of neil's lunge. Finish up on Neil's of course.

Location

center of the wall, on crimps on the low vertical wall.

Protection

pad

Photos

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Graham O.
  V7+
Graham O.  
  V7+
I think breakage makes people change their beta. That greasy crimp directly below the starting hold of Neil's used to be an incut flake and was ripped off. Originally, it was good enough for people to cross over into the starting hold of Neil's, but it's so crappy now it's cant be used as anything more than an intermediate. Very fun line, though! It's definitely harder now. Jul 15, 2016
Not as fun as it was after the initial break. But, one can still enjoy the clutch sit into new dimension. Nov 8, 2012
Joe M.

  V7+
Joe M.    
  V7+
Well said, Dana. The better question is what does the new break do to Clutch??? Nov 6, 2012
The problem was over graded at v7 prior to its original break. It was probably v6, no harder than the sit that moves left into the axe head. After the first break a few years ago, using the broken gaston probably made it v7, although the toe hook beta has always been there which if it works for you supposedly does not feel hard. with the most recent break, the toe hook beta now becomes the path of least resistance, so that beta should garner the grade, whatever the consensus on that beta is, but probably not harder than v7. Forcing yourself to use the now terrible broken hold is not only harder, but not any fun. Nov 6, 2012
Joe M.

  V7+
Joe M.    
  V7+
Did another hold break recently? I have not been down there for a while... Oct 29, 2012
Any word on the new grade since the gaston came off for the transition into Neil's? Max Monn and Matt Giosi were pretty confident it has become an 8. Personally, I don't have enough confidence in my sense of grades to say one way or the other. Thoughts? Oct 29, 2012
tscupp
Englewood, CO
 
tscupp   Englewood, CO
 
oops, my bad, I can't believe I never noticed that it was spelled that way. Apr 20, 2010
Joe M.

  V7+
Joe M.    
  V7+
this problem is actually named Rump to Jump (start sitting on your rump then finish with the jump on Neil's Lunge). Apr 20, 2010