Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Neil Pothier
Page Views: 4,243 total · 38/month
Shared By: tscupp on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


128 Opinions

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Description

This was my first V4 and I still love doing it every time I visit the warm up cave. Thankfully it feels a bit easier now than that first time!

Start on the obvious left facing flake in the center of the wall. Make some fun moves up the flake to two crimps then a tougher move to the sidepull (or gaston) and one more tricky move to the top.

And avoid good holds out right for full value.

  • Beta* - If you are having trouble getting the sidepull, consider getting clever with the flake and your right heel (worked for me at least).

Location

Center of warm up cave, big left facing flake.

Protection

Pad or two.

Photos

ckersch
  V3+
ckersch  
  V3+
A few fun variations on Niels lunge that also might be worth doing:

a) Climb up cave warm up (the V0 to the right of Neil's) to the big jug, then traverse left through the horizontal crack and finish up Neil's lunge. (V2)

b) Starting on the start hold of cave warm up, move directly out left using a big, enjoyable layback to establish on the start to Neils. (V4) May 20, 2013
Graham O.
  V3-4
Graham O.  
  V3-4
Really a lot of fun! The crux for me was hitting that slot up high. Jul 15, 2016
Jack Ritzenberg  
  V4
Great climb!, twisting your right foot into the flake really helps with hitting the sidepull. Oct 15, 2016
Brady Chiongbian
Providence, RI
Brady Chiongbian   Providence, RI
Try using a left kneebar in the flake into the left hand gaston. Makes for a nice chill static move Jun 1, 2017