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Routes in Warm Up Cave

Ab Master V6 7A
Cave Overhang V4 6B
Cave Roof V3 6A
Cave Warm Up V0 4
Clutch V8 7B
Clutch Dimension V8 7B
Fresh Bagel V10 7C+
Full Throttle V8 7B
Gassed Off V8 7B
Gassed On V8-9 7B+
Jacked Bagel V7 7A+
Jacked Bagel (sit) V9 7C
Neil's Lunge V4- 6B
New Dimension V7 7A+
New Direction V3 6A
Northwest Passage, The V8 7B
Rump to Jump V7 7A+
Shoot to Kill V11 8A
Shoot to Maim V10 7C+
Soft Clutch V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Neil Pothier
Page Views: 3,512 total, 38/month
Shared By: tscupp on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


107 Opinions

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Description

This was my first V4 and I still love doing it every time I visit the warm up cave. Thankfully it feels a bit easier now than that first time!

Start on the obvious left facing flake in the center of the wall. Make some fun moves up the flake to two crimps then a tougher move to the sidepull (or gaston) and one more tricky move to the top.

And avoid good holds out right for full value.

  • Beta* - If you are having trouble getting the sidepull, consider getting clever with the flake and your right heel (worked for me at least).

Location

Center of warm up cave, big left facing flake.

Protection

Pad or two.
Brady Chiongbian
Providence, RI
Brady Chiongbian   Providence, RI
Try using a left kneebar in the flake into the left hand gaston. Makes for a nice chill static move Jun 1, 2017
Jack Ritzenberg  
  V4
Great climb!, twisting your right foot into the flake really helps with hitting the sidepull. Oct 15, 2016
Graham O.
  V3-4
Graham O.  
  V3-4
Really a lot of fun! The crux for me was hitting that slot up high. Jul 15, 2016
ckersch
  V3+
ckersch  
  V3+
A few fun variations on Niels lunge that also might be worth doing:

a) Climb up cave warm up (the V0 to the right of Neil's) to the big jug, then traverse left through the horizontal crack and finish up Neil's lunge. (V2)

b) Starting on the start hold of cave warm up, move directly out left using a big, enjoyable layback to establish on the start to Neils. (V4) May 20, 2013