Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
1. Climb the thin crack up to a blocky overhang. Once past the overhang, belay at a large pine tree. 5.8.
2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.
About 150 feet or so right of the nose of the High Exposure Buttress. Go past the Third Trapps Chimney, then look for a large, right-facing flake about 15-20 feet high. This is the start of Obstacle Delusion. Alpine Diversions is 15 feet or so right of that. You should see a short, indistinct crack that is immediately left of a small chimney.