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Routes in Hen's Nest Rock

Astro Flex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close to the Edge (CLOSED) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Finger Lickin' Good (CLOSED) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lunatic Fringe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Starship Trooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sultans of Stem (CLOSED) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Grant Stephens, Martin Hackworth 1984
Page Views: 273 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Endangered species Details

Description

Locate a splitter hand crack a few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good.

Climb the crack until it fades and then launch out onto the spookily chalkless face. Angle up and right to a ledge. Traverse right to bolt anchors over the chopped sport route and belay.

Location

Few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good. There are bolt anchors to the right. Protect the ledge traverse as best as you can.

Protection

Hand sized gear.

Photos

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TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.8+ PG13
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.8+ PG13
A single rack, nuts, and tricams work well on this route. There are some smaller pieces than hand sized required for the upper finger crack after the small roof. Bring webbing to replace anchor material. Don't trust old slings! The last little runout is not bad. If you fell, there would be nothing to hit and get injured. It is only about a body length away from several solid pieces of gear. The major thing to watch out for when topping out is not ripping off one of the holds. Otherwise, the moves are easy and not R. May 10, 2011