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Heart of Glass

V4+, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 97 votes
FA: standing start- Ed Sewall, late '80s
Rhode Island > Lincoln Woods > Heart Boulder

Description

This problem is fantastic, I have a hard time not throwing the pad down and getting on it every time I see it. Be warned though, in the summer it feels nearly impossible.

Start with left hand on a sidepull rail and right hand on a sloper around the arete. Put your left foot on a very small/slippery hold and heel hook the arete with your right. Slap your way up the arete to the tough match and top out. Some people start with the right hand on a high pinch too, but I find it easier and more fun to start on the low sloper.

V8 from the sit starting on a low crimp and sloper.

Location

You can see the backside of the arete from the road but it is basically on the side opposite of the road. It faces the swamp.

Protection

1 pad is fine, 2nd pad is nice if you come off up high.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

sam on heart of glass.
[Hide Photo] sam on heart of glass.
A little taste of Fontainebleau
[Hide Photo] A little taste of Fontainebleau
Miguel Almeida at the start
[Hide Photo] Miguel Almeida at the start
Funny boulder
[Hide Photo] Funny boulder
Who's got the best hat ?
[Hide Photo] Who's got the best hat ?
The Heart of Glass arete.
[Hide Photo] The Heart of Glass arete.
Heart of Glass SDS - Yellow
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Hear of Glass Stand - Blue
[Hide Photo] Heart of Glass SDS - Yellow Hear of Glass Stand - Blue
Heart of Glass
[Hide Photo] Heart of Glass

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] the foothold for the start has since broke...there's still a nub on either side of where the foot hold was but the one good part of the foot broke off.... it still goes....just a tad more balance now Apr 28, 2011
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] FA standing start- Ed Sewall, late '80s, not sure of the sit FA Jan 22, 2012
Sean Kurnas
  V4
[Hide Comment] v4? Sure why not... I think that the nubs Jay Z mentioned have crumbled/polished into even worse footholds since I was last here, but I could be wrong. In any case, I think there are better options for the starting foot.

As promised, a shout out to mystery Dave for the chalk, he led the day in assists. May 27, 2013
Joe M
MA and NH
[Hide Comment] #4 on the beta topo Feb 3, 2016