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Routes in Powerhouse Wall

Alex Rocks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If I Told You I'd Have to Kill You S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
L.A. is burning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Sock Bandit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Some Kind of Wonderful S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Valley 5.8 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bruce Pottenger, Jeff Neer: 1/1990
Page Views: 422 total, 5/month
Shared By: john durr on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

If I Told You is a great technical face climb with one crimpy hard move, bolt at your face just over a small roof. Great holds and excellent movement on this one.

Morning sun.

Location

This is to the right of Valley 5.8 and starts on the same ledge.

Protection

6 bolts to hooks, a 0.5 or 0.75 cam under the roof is possible, but really isn't needed. Gear to anchor your belayer on the starting ledge may be wise.

Photos

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have to agree, this thing felt 11d/12a. hard right crimp and rocking out over a tenuous left foot to a big left reach. felt sandbagged at 11a for sure. still goes and the crimping is quality. Nov 3, 2016
brucy  
This climb, as of some 5 years and running, has largely lost a crucial left handhold that used to exist over the roof that allowed the crux move to occur. Like much of the Owens Gorge, this has- with the passage of so much traffic- eroded out. This route now largely requires a fairly stiff dyno to the finishing hold, of some length. Only the most naive con themselves into blithely thinking that the Gorge is "unchanging" from one year to the next- it's not. 11a- not even close! Apr 13, 2016