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Routes in Battlement Crag

In the Line of Fire T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: R. Laird and C. Laird
Page Views: 62 total, 1/month
Shared By: ryan laird on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Line of Fire provides airy, varied climbing that mixes crack climbing and positiony face climbing moves together with good rests. A blocky, reachy start leads to the ledges below the concave, bombay chimney. Make the memorable entrance moves to the chimney and delicately traverse right under the huge roof. From the blocky perch at the right side of the roof, step up onto the alligator skin face and follow the dihedral to the anchors.

Location

This is located on the south corner of the dome and is easily identified by the black, concaved chimney at midheight.

Protection

3 bolts and a light gear rack to 3 inches. Several slings. The anchor is two cold shuts at a comfortable ledge. Due to the excessive rat&bat shit, wet wipes are required before you eat your PB&J!

Extra considerations:
Be wary of potential rockfall, try to minimize rope drag, and place gear to protect the second. The 2 bolts at the start eliminate placing gear behind a giant block your belayer may be standing below. A bolt on the alligator skin face above the roof is in line with a groove that will reduce rope drag/abrasion and will keep the rope off the footholds at the lip. Feel free to skip the bolts.

Photos

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Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Weirdest route I'm never going to do again. Mar 18, 2014
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
So should wet wipes be added to the standard rack recommendation? Jul 15, 2012
Like River Dance, I am confused why some sections have bolts and others do not. As is, if you intend to clip the bolts, you still need gear, yet you can do the whole thing safely without the bolts altogether (the first three bolts are next to a hand crack, the fourth next to a finger crack, and the fifth next to a bomber alligator plate (perfect nut or finger-sized cam)). While the bolt under the roof/in the big chimney is helpful for rope management for the leader, it sort of sets the follower up for a big swing into space if they botch the chimney traverse. I couldn't decide between a bomb or one star for the climbing, bolting aside, as there is a river of guano getting into the chimney. The whole thing is extremely awkward. Jun 24, 2012
ryan laird
Denver, CO
 
ryan laird   Denver, CO
 
The route would be a three star route if it didn’t have the poorer quality rock at the start and the bat guano. A ton of rock and guano cleaning was done on this route, but there is always potential for some additional rockfall. Use caution for the belayer. Apr 12, 2010