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Desert Siren (Tower)

5.11 PG13, Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
FA: FA: Ian Allison (solo) FFA: Ian Allison,Eric Dixon & Brad Brandewie
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Blue Gramma Cliff
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the prominent tower on the right side of Blue Gramma.

Pitch 1: (5.11) Starts on a good ledge just below a large juniper tree. Climb up slabby rock to the crack in a left facing corner. The crack starts out .75 camalot but quickly gets wider to a #3 camalot climb into pod just below the flared roof crack which is protected by a old 4.5 camalot. Climb out roof crack (crux) mostly #3 camalot but takes #4's at the lip. Pull roof on to small ledge and continue up to large sloping ledge to the right of the blunt arete. Build an anchor here in the horizontal .75- 3 Camalots.

Pitch 2: (5.10 PG13) Climb left around the arete and on to the face. At the first broken section you can get a red alien or .75 camalot. Continue face climbing up on good features following 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor just below the summit.

Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes from the two bolt anchor on the summit. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. Be careful to not get you rope stuck in the crack.

Location

Hike up to Blue Gramma and head right of Petrelli Motors walk past the large pictographs until you are under the tower. Pick you way up to the ledge just below the obvious left facing corner and the large juniper tree.

Protection

Standard desert rack with triples 3's and two 4's, 5 quick draws for the 2nd pitch, some runners for the roof on the 1st pitch and 2 ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ian Allison and Eric Dixon on the FA of Desert Siren.<br>
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The face climbing on the second pitch (which Ian is bolting on lead in this photo) is quite fun. <br>
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I would say it's on par with the second pitch of Easter Island though it's a little less secure overall and a good bit spicier at the beginning.
[Hide Photo] Ian Allison and Eric Dixon on the FA of Desert Siren. The face climbing on the second pitch (which Ian is bolting on lead in this photo) is quite fun. I would say it's on par with the second…
Anus, heading into what seems to be a gaping anus OW roof yay
[Hide Photo] Anus, heading into what seems to be a gaping anus OW roof yay
I would like everyone to be aware of the loose rock danger on Desert Siren, as shown in this photo.  Brad you are a brave man!  Good call on the helmet!
[Hide Photo] I would like everyone to be aware of the loose rock danger on Desert Siren, as shown in this photo. Brad you are a brave man! Good call on the helmet!
Here is a wider view of the tower.<br>
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This photo shows the whole route, including the crack and roof on pitch one.
[Hide Photo] Here is a wider view of the tower. This photo shows the whole route, including the crack and roof on pitch one.
Brad Brandewie follow in the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Brad Brandewie follow in the second pitch.
Me heading up on lead to finish drilling.
[Hide Photo] Me heading up on lead to finish drilling.
Eric Dixon pulling the roof on the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Eric Dixon pulling the roof on the first pitch.
Route topo.
[Hide Photo] Route topo.
The route follows the obvious left facing corner through the roof. Then climbs the right side of the white face staying just to the left of the blunt arete.
[Hide Photo] The route follows the obvious left facing corner through the roof. Then climbs the right side of the white face staying just to the left of the blunt arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Damn Ian! Nice work on that second pitch! To be honest I thought the roof was pretty cruiser although a little awkward. While the beginning of the second pitch was pretty damn burl. Getting to the first gear in the broken crack was heads up for sure and once I got to the bolt I tried freeing but said screw it and aided the rest.
Nice Job! Dec 6, 2010
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] I remember watching Ian walk up that face with all sorts of crap hanging off his harness...Bosch, bolts, hammer, etc...and then following it saying, "really?". The first pitch really isn't that bad, most of the flaky stuff has to be gone. Besides, I'm not that good at offwidths. Jun 11, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
[Hide Comment] great work!!! had a blast on this fun tower outing . sweet 2nd pitch real desert sport at its finest ... Apr 24, 2012
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Still pretty sandy and we kicked a good size flake off the roof, but it's fun! Second pitch felt pretty stout. Nov 25, 2018