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Late Night Chalk Show

5.13b, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Keith Hengen
Wisconsin > Central > Necedah (Petenw… > 10. Above Anthrax

Description

Scramble up the boulders to the right of the main block and pre-clip the first bolt from there. This route is short and very intense - significantly harder than Whiskey a go go (ultra classic...), but shorter. Grading is difficult due to the length, yet the crux (moving from the second to third bolt) is both sequence specific and powerful. Flex your huge muscles really hard and follow the arrette to chains. Then go have a beer.

Location

This route is the right hand side of the block that follows the obvious angled arrette. On the right side of the upper arrette is an aesthetic finger crack. Lower off of the chains or untie and walk off the back side.

Protection

All bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hot Remo action!
[Hide Photo] Hot Remo action!
Closer look.
[Hide Photo] Closer look.
It took a few sessions with Nathan, Kael and Kelsen to figure out the sequence, then another couple sessions to actually stick the crux moves.
[Hide Photo] It took a few sessions with Nathan, Kael and Kelsen to figure out the sequence, then another couple sessions to actually stick the crux moves.
Vinny hitting the good hold.
[Hide Photo] Vinny hitting the good hold.
Vince.
[Hide Photo] Vince.
Vinny about to pull over the corner.
[Hide Photo] Vinny about to pull over the corner.
Top half of the route.
[Hide Photo] Top half of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] If you've already done Whiskey or are a strong boulderer (but stay away from endurance routes), let me encourage you to get on this climb. It's somewhere between a boulder problem and a proper route, but it's hard, aesthetic and fun nonetheless. The grade is a suggestion at this point and is based on Whiskey as a .13a. Apr 10, 2010
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] Wow, nice job dude! Apr 11, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Nice work Keith!!! So this was your little secret, looks great. Apr 11, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] sounds delightfully short! Apr 11, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] This is a really cool feature. Vinny and I were able to figure out most of the moves, but the two move crux sequence is HARD! After that its fun and bouldery to the top. Stoked on this new project, thanks Keith. Apr 20, 2010
[Hide Comment] Hell yeah! I met up with Steve Tucker on Sunday and we're both eyeing two more lines. He's going to bolt a cool (big!) roof, and I'm bolting a giant fin this week. Both are tall, gorgeous lines and it's surprising they haven't been climbed yet.

So, new digs at Necedah this summer. Apr 20, 2010
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
  5.13a/b
[Hide Comment] Awesome line Keith! super fun classic, well worth the time on it. In a way its a wee bit of a one move wonder, but it didnt take away from its aesthetic at all. Nov 3, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Yes Melin! Nice work. Nov 4, 2010
[Hide Comment] Travis - I'm stoked that you got it! It's certainly one hard move, but I was excited to find something new to climb. Keep crushing.

- k Nov 6, 2010
Jonah Weil
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Cool, stout, little climb. The crux boulder (about 3 hard moves for a shorty like me) was definitely the highlight. The top lets up a bit but despite the better holds, the feet are off at angles or to the side, making for interesting body positions to advance the hands. Just wish it was taller. Felt on the softer side of 5.13b for me, but distinctly harder than Whiskey. May 9, 2020