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Routes in The Alligator Lounge

Altered State T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big Rhonda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Evil Genius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feel the Void T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Heels over Head T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lator Gator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Let's Do It Again, Daddy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lola and the Magic Closet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lounge Lizard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optical Illusion T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spank Me T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Urge Overkill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wave Goodbye S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wild Thing S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Cheyney
Page Views: 879 total · 8/month
Shared By: Glenn Schuler on Apr 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This is one of those hidden gems of Thunder Ridge. Doesn't look like much from the ground but has excellent steep 5.9 climbing. The route wanders around and has a couple of ways to go. Start 10' right of Evil Genius at a right-leaning ramp with a bolt. Climb through the crumbly section and onto a ledge with a good crack on the right side. Follow this left-facing dihedral for about 10' and look for an inobvious leftward traverse move that will take you back towards the main chimney system. Continue up using jugs and the awesome "pinky hold" to the right of the main wide crack. Big holds along a crack system lead back right and up to the anchors.

Variation: After leaving the ledge and heading up the left-facing dihedral - climb another 10' past the standard traverse and then go left.

Location

East side of Alligator Lounge, starts 10' right of Evil Genius.

Protection

Pro to 3 1/2" with plenty of long runners to reduce rope drag.

Photos

Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
This route is a great 5.9 - varied, steep , and long for the area . Lots of moves and choices for the leader . Probably Thunder's best at this grade . Apr 10, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
And, if you're having too much fun in the crack to notice the traverses, continue up the widening crack until it rounds over to a ledge. Up a lieback crack (#3 Camalot was perfect) to a sloping ledge, then rightish up to the top; anchors are just to the left. (So close, that if I'd moved left at the sloping ledge I'd have come up right under the anchor.) I belayed at top to minimize rope drag. (You'll rap right down past the original crack you could have climbed.) Lotta fun! May 23, 2010

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