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Routes in The Egg

Boneyard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Egg-Nostic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Egg-zillaration S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exhilaration S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Mile, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slotterhouse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Texas Chainsaw Massacre S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urushiol T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 1992 Leventhal, Oliphant, Drapper
Page Views: 1,902 total, 20/month
Shared By: Spider Savage on Apr 10, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Overhanging bolted route.

Location

Located on the East side of "The Egg" formation. Access from inside the Corridor. Obvious overhanging line. Clearly bolted. Chain anchor to get down from the top.

Protection

Bolts.
Alexander
Los Angeles
 
Alexander   Los Angeles
 
This is no longer an 11A for sure. Climbed it on July 8, 2015, and it's a very sustained 11d. WATCH OUT for the rail after second bolt, it's crackling and may come off which would land you in a tree, most likely. Rusted chains anchor at the top. Jul 9, 2015
Brian Mulvey
Los Angeles, CA
Brian Mulvey   Los Angeles, CA
Did route pictured above, what Levy calls Walking on Eggshells (longer overhanging face on left, not shorter overhanging face on right whose first bolt is gained by stemming corridor). Walking on Eggshells may've been 11a/b but that was a dozen broken holds ago. It's now more like 11d/12a. The route is very sustained. An 11a/b leader going up there expecting an 11a/b lead will be in for a surprise. It'll only get harder as more holds break. Seems like 25% of the holds are temporary members, and the bolt protecting the crux hasn't gotten any less manky. Anchor is poor. Cool climb though. Jun 2, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
The Egg is a splendid, but seldom visited summit. There's a bolted anchor on the NE shoulder of The Egg, above "Walking on Eggshells"/ "Exhilaration." The anchor consists of two widely spaced bolts, one above the other, and long rusted chains, one with a tiny screw-link and the other with a carabiner. Two open coldshuts are on the west shoulder at the top of Egg-zillaration. There as also a set of Fixe rings below the summit on the south face. Jan 5, 2012
Levy
Reseda, CA
Levy   Reseda, CA
The route described here was called Walking On Eggshells. It was a loose toprope that we never bolted. I do not know who bolted it but the bolts are nearly impossible to clip because they do not follow the line of holds.


The route called Egg-zillaraton is on the West face of the formation & starts out of the chimney. there are 5 bolts and the rock quality is very good. the FA of the Egg was accomplished by a light line tossed over the summit & a climbing rope pulled back over and anchored from the other side. I then jugged the line to gain the virgin summit. way exciting! Mar 4, 2011
randy88fj62  
 
Climbed on this route Sunday 1/23/11. The bolt before the crux / overhang is dangerously loose. Seems that a lot of people fall on this bolt as there was a bail out carabiner on it when we got there. My group also could not finish the climb and bailed on the same dangerous bolt.
I climbed up the class IV backside to top rope this route and was disappointed with the top rope anchors. There is an old two bolt chain with quick links and a newer two bolt chain set. The newer chain is so small you can't fit carabiners in it or quick links and rope barely fits through it. I ended up rapping off the old chain / quick link set and calling it a day since I did not bring adequate static line or webbing to rig off the three bolt hangars located at the very top of the formation.
This was my first trip to texas canyon and I am disappointed with the bolting as many routes had multiple spinners. The bolts were 5/16" and need updating. I know it's easy to be a critic when not funding the hardware yourself but that's my take. There was one gentleman bolting a new route up the south face of the egg and he was doing it properly with 1/2" bolts and good hardware. He was also spray painting the bolts to hide them from non climbers which is great as we don't need any more attention from non climbers who may not like our sport. Jan 24, 2011
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
 
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
 
This route has a lot of choss in the lower section and holds break often. There is a pretty large flake around the 3-4 or 4-5 bolt that is likely to break in the near future. Be wary on belay!

Otherswise, a superfun route. Jun 20, 2010