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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle

A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Joe Herbst & Co.
Page Views: 1,180 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Apr 9, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the obvious offwidth roof about 100' up on the crag. Named for the uniqueness of the climbing- this is one of joe's neater little gems out there.

Location

Middle of Byrd Pinnacle, rap from the bolted anchor above the roof, one rope, i believe.

Protection

Standard rack- bring a #4 camalot or two, maybe a #5 (C4) for the roof.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
The roof of the route is visible in the picture of Byrd Pinnacle Left on this page. Burly fun, I had to lower off and let Gabe lead it at the time...still not sure i could do it today! Apr 9, 2010
JJ Armstrong
  5.10c
JJ Armstrong  
  5.10c
Take a #5. Apr 19, 2010
Handren's guide lists a 5.9 variation that goes up the left-facing corner to the left of the roof. Some enjoyable crack climbing to be had. We TR'd this after climbing Byrd Pinnacle left. Feb 2, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
this offwidth is very hard, if you can send this it is official: YOU can climb offwidths! LOL i've tried it 3 times and still haven't a clue how to put it together...

cassondra's right, the 5.9 variation is killer and is a great warm-up if you've come to send the zinger



jon Nov 9, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10-
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10-
The surprising thing about this route is... no offwidth crack technique is needed save or maybe one or two foot cams. Crimps, baby, crimps. Look inside and see what you find. Sorry to spoil all the onsight attempts out there! Nov 18, 2011
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Yeah, if it weren't for the crimps you'd definitely need to be a decent, anyway, offwidth climber. That'd be rad if you didn't use them. Would probably have to invert? But whatever. Fun either way Nov 30, 2012
Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
  5.10c
I'll say, if you're short, or climb short, you definitely have to have some offwidth technique, both to enter and to pull around the roof. I needed to anyway; no crimps only for me! Jan 4, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
krazy kool OW roof. double small and med cams, plus single #2, #3, #4, #5. first half has all the sweet splitter jamming and wild fun, then a mundane upper half that joins up with the finishes of Byrd Pinnacle Left and Xyphoid Left Dec 1, 2015

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