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Routes in Atlantic

Atlantic Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Atomic Dust Dance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
El Tesoro S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Field Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Field Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Field of Opportunity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gauntlet, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Morass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Last of the Dead Guy's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Macho Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pretender, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Romper Room S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Saturn T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Thin Lizzy aka Goon Squad T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Three Bolt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Schooley 1979
Page Views: 740 total, 8/month
Shared By: Stan Jones on Apr 8, 2010
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Description

Follow the large overlap to the large huecos and belay in the lower hueco for P1. P1 crux is about 3/4 of the way along the pitch as you work back left to the lower hueco at the end of the pitch (5.7). Look for high hands as you traverse left. P1 is about 100’ long. P2 begins in the crack above the upper hueco. P2 crux is stemming above the upper hueco at the beginning of P2 (5.7). Top of P2 is about 80’ above the P1 belay.

Location

From the base of the Sea of Screams wall, follow the ramps up and right past the South America wall to a spot 75’ below a huge pair of huecos (one atop the other) at the end of a right-to-left trending overlap. The bolted water streak that goes directly up the slab to the huecos is the climb “Field Direct.” Start Macho Man by climbing the ramps/face leading up and right to the overlap.
From the ledge at the top of P2, move left 30’ to the Power Grip/Saturn anchors to rap 80 feet to the intermediate rap station, then another 140 feet to the base of the wall (two ropes or 70m with a down-climb).

Protection

Everything from small nuts to large cams (#4 camalot under the overlap just after the P1 crux before the final move into the hueco). No anchors.

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