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Routes in Snickers - West Face

Disobedience School T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus Saw You Take It 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2-3
Turd Burgler T A2+
Type: Aid, 100 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Frazier Haney
Page Views: 1,145 total, 12/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 7, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is mostly an aid route, but it does have a few free moves at the end. The climb traverses out under a huge dark black cave/roof, using natural gear, and a bolt and fixed pin too. Turn the big roof on a couple of bolts, then clip a few fixed pins and fixed copperheads, then follow a crack up and right to a few free moves to a dike to finish the route off. Most of the tricky placements are fixed, and the crux on the first ascent was hand drilling a few aid bolts hanging upside down out the big roof! Watch for rope drag. Joshua Tree has many excellent "practice" aid climbs; this is one of them. Walk off to the right.

Location

West face of Snickers

Protection

No need to bring any pins, heads or such;...just cams and stoppers and quick draws. The tricky placements are ( hopefully ) fixed.
AOSR
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
i thought it was more like a 5.7 with one 5.11 move... Dec 22, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I think this route has been freed at around 5.8+ Apr 8, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
I don't think this aid climb as seen a second ascent yet .....hop on it and get really for that Spring trip to The Valley..... Apr 8, 2010