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5.7, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Todd Gordon, Suzette Olsen, Tucker Tech
California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > The Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > West Mongolia > The Black Tower


Climb the arete and face past 5 bolts and one fixed pin to a fixed anchor.


This is the only route on The Black Tower.


Quick draws, and some natural gear to suppliment the bolts.

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The Black Tower;  route Maisy  (5.7)
[Hide Photo] The Black Tower; route Maisy (5.7)

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Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
[Hide Comment] This is an exciting, airy route with fun exposed movement. There are a lot of hollow flaky spots but there's also enough good rock to keep the fear factor low. The most exciting part of all was the one bolt anchor!!?? Though the bolt looked good, I left a stopper as a second piece just to be safe. To supplement the pin and bolts I used stoppers and small cams up to a #1 Camalot. Apr 5, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
[Hide Comment] The original anchor had a bolt and a stopper;.....someone stole the stopper;...thanks, Brandt, for the replacement.. Apr 5, 2014