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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dan Scott, Philippe Wheelock
Page Views: 756 total, 8/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Apr 7, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fingers splitter would be quite popular if it wasn't for a short bit of steep choss at the bottom. The hollow block/flake isn't that bad except for a crumbly move to gain an easy ramp at its top. However, most people probably wouldn't want to climb this more than once or twice.

The finger crack is in some lovely varnish. It starts as tight .5 Camalots and tapers to several feet of #0 Metolious TCUs (purple). With face holds just where you need them, there are some power moves and some balance moves.

Location

Take a right where the trail meets the cliff, near the corner of "Neat". Look for a sandy, left-facing ramp about 30 feet right of a splitter off-width, which is in the Bloom guide. "Baroque" is the left of twin cracks at the top of the ramp that lead to an obvious flat ledge on the varnished face. There is a plaque at the base. The ramp is gained by climbing a hand crack on the right side of a large block perched on a rotten band. (I don't know if the left side of the block — a thin corner crack — is better; I doubt it.) If you come to the petroglyphs along the trail you've gone about 150 feet too far right.

Protection

#0 Metolius TCU (x2 to sew it up), #1 TCU (x2), .4 Camalot (x3), .5 Camalot (x2); and #2 Camalot (x2), #3 Camalot and #4 Camalot, and two or three long runners for the start (one double-length runner is useful).

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D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
Thanks for the history, Philippe. Sorry to hear about Dan. Oct 17, 2012
This route was put up by Dan Scott with a belay from me; with Dan cleaning and leading on the same attempt. Sweet 'cept for the start. Baroque is slang for Puerto Rican-at first it seems a little dirty but when you get to know it its all good! Dan died in a fall at J-Tree in 2007 and is sorely missed. Apr 30, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
i loved this route! new school-ish, face moves with bomber pro! Apr 13, 2010