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Routes in Right Side

Black Belt Internet Spray Masters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bob is Real S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Camazonia T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation of Tranquility, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crescendo of the Sarcophagus Breeding S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Point Station S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masticate Expectorate S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Newton Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh Coulee, Oh Coulee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Move Blunder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Drill Rules, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rio Vista S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring Loaded S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Weep Holes on a Sill S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 420 total · 4/month
Shared By: Kurt Withers on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Crux at the third bolt with some hard sloping holds.

Location [Edit]

The last climb on the far right of the cliff

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts and a chain anchor

Photos

Jennifer Strauss
  5.11a
Jennifer Strauss  
  5.11a
I didn't use any slopers at the crux. This would make a good first 5.11 lead - easier climbing above and below a well-protected crux. Apr 16, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Agree that you don't need to use slopers on the crux. There is also a small finger pocket, a gaston, and a bomber jug hold to choose from depending on the size of your fingers and the length of your wingspan. Depending on which option you choose, well-thought foot placement and drop knee may be essential. Half of the crux is freeing a hand and using good body positioning for clipping the bolt, once you get that solid, moving through the sequence of 4-5 holds requires good technique. I'd love to watch someone use the slopers though - it's my weakness. Apr 23, 2018

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