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Routes in Spooner Crag

Caught in a Mosh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crimp Tuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire and Ice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forget About It S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangar 18 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jello Wars S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maxwell's Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Cap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nightcrawler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pool S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pot Belly S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spoonman S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stepping Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yellow Finger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Max Jones and Mark Kaminsky, 1991
Page Views: 1,236 total, 13/month
Shared By: Gill on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the flake below the bolt. Place small pro in flake. Smear to bolt. Smear to small roof. Undercling left. Place 1" pro. Climb vertical crack out of small roof. This is the crux. Climb up the crack on the ramp. Place 1-2 1"-2" pro over 30 rampy feet. Two hangers to rappel or TR from. Can also access a TR to Forget About It (5.11a; 5.10c variation) or Thinkin About It (5.10c/d) just to the climbers left of Maxwell's Hammer. Great route for a first trad lead!

Location

South face of Spooner crag. Start is below a lone bolt where the large ramp becomes more vertical.

Protection

Standard rack to 2", plus two bolts. Two anchors at the top.

Photos

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Ensign
Zephyr Cove, NV
 
Ensign   Zephyr Cove, NV
 
A new bolt has been added lower on the route since the first time I climbed this. It is now much safer. Sep 5, 2016
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8 R
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8 R
Tyson's right on. The crack takes great pro and you don't have any good pro until the bolt. Jan 29, 2015
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
The crack above the roof takes great passive pro. It is a quite shallow crack so cams don't always seat well in it. Bring some nuts, hexes, or both and get some good practice placing these on fairly mild terrain. Crux for me is the run-out to the first bolt. Be cautious here, cause even with a piece in that first flake, you would surely deck if you were to fall before gaining the first bolt. May 15, 2012