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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rusty Baille and Mark Craddock, 1978?
Page Views: 2,208 total, 24/month
Shared By: chris righter on Apr 1, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climbs a cupped hands corner to an OW roof. It starts out okay, but it deteriorates at the wide roof. The route requires some wide stuff for pro, or you can just punch it to the anchor.

Location

This is roughly 100 feet climber's left of WHJ.

Protection

#3-#5 Camalots. Bolted anchor with rope and biner.
Make sure you save a #5 to put in the roof right before the anchors. I placed mine earlier in the wide slab crack below and had to downclimb and get it up there. Recommend bringing two #5s or a #5 and a #6 so you have something to protect the roof near the anchors as well as the slab below. 2 days ago
I'd say the topout roof move to the anchors is 5.9+/5.10- with the route up to that point being 5.9, and a #5 cam worked perfectly in the roof. Fun route. Oct 19, 2015
george wilkey
travelers rest sc
george wilkey   travelers rest sc
I thought this was a fun route, especially that move coming out of the cave. I used a #4 1/2, it was perfect. Jun 15, 2013
jeffro popko
montrose,co
  5.9+
jeffro popko   montrose,co
  5.9+
The top out is a fun 5.10 move, just because the anchors are where they are doesn't mean you shouldn't do it. The anchors are placed well and eliminate rope drag which is a constant problem out here. Apr 2, 2012
Eric Haye
Boulder
Eric Haye   Boulder
I think a #5 is the better piece for the roof as I couldn't get a #6 without it being way over cammed. 5.9+ is about right. Fun route with the right gear. Oct 17, 2011
I was there for the tennies send, but a number 6 was pretty clutch in the roof to protect the last bit before the anchor. Sep 21, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I TR'ed this one in tennies the other day, it was pretty well suited for it I thought. Also, I got wonderful stacked hands through most of the wide bit. Sep 14, 2010
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Per Desert Rock, 'Rusty's Cave, 5.10". FA: Rusty Baille and Mark Craddock, 1978. Original descent, walk-off. The anchors kind of eliminate the crux up the final OW/palming mantle deal. Fun route with fairly good rock and a really cool, featured wide section. Apr 5, 2010