Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||2,919 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Taylor-B. on Apr 1, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Please respect the mining claims in this area. Details
DescriptionThere are two variations to the first pitch, there is the direct start that rarely comes in at WI4 M5 R/X. The other start is more reasonable, but still is a bit R and goes at WI4- M4. This start is to the climber's right of the direct variation and ascends a mixed runnel to gain the big ledge below the main flow.
P1. WI4- M4. Pull an awkward bulge that is well-protected and ascend up the mixed runnel to the big ledge.
P2. WI3. Climb up the left side of the main ice flow and belay below the big overhang.
P3. M4+. Traverse left to avoid the gnarly, overhanging, ice dagger??? and climb whatever looks clever up blocky terrain to gain the low angle terrace. You can link P2-3.
P4-5 WI3- M2. ascend up the gully if its in for 1 or 2 more pitches.
Descend by scrambling off to the West or rap the route.
LocationDrive up County RD 850 and park at the upper Blue Lake dam. Cross the stream and traverse the scree/talus slope. Caution! There is a mine shaft at the base of the climber's right variation that can drift in with snow.
Please do not trespass around the lower Blue Lake cabin or road.