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Routes in North Star

Goldschlager T WI2-3 M1-2
North Star T WI4+ M4-5
Ursa Major T WI3-4 M4+ PG13
Yukon Jack T WI3 M3-4
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,919 total · 31/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Apr 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Please respect the mining claims in this area. Details

Description

There are two variations to the first pitch, there is the direct start that rarely comes in at WI4 M5 R/X. The other start is more reasonable, but still is a bit R and goes at WI4- M4. This start is to the climber's right of the direct variation and ascends a mixed runnel to gain the big ledge below the main flow.

P1. WI4- M4. Pull an awkward bulge that is well-protected and ascend up the mixed runnel to the big ledge.

P2. WI3. Climb up the left side of the main ice flow and belay below the big overhang.

P3. M4+. Traverse left to avoid the gnarly, overhanging, ice dagger??? and climb whatever looks clever up blocky terrain to gain the low angle terrace. You can link P2-3.

P4-5 WI3- M2. ascend up the gully if its in for 1 or 2 more pitches.

Descend by scrambling off to the West or rap the route.

Location

Drive up County RD 850 and park at the upper Blue Lake dam. Cross the stream and traverse the scree/talus slope. Caution! There is a mine shaft at the base of the climber's right variation that can drift in with snow.

Please do not trespass around the lower Blue Lake cabin or road.

Protection

Full alpine rack up to #4BD, pitons, ice screws, and a helmet.

Photos

Ben Collett  
 
While this is a cool feature, the rock through the crux is really pretty chossy. The rap from the top of pitch 3 to the bottom of pitch 2 is a full 60m and the route wanders quite a lot, so linking those pitches is perhaps not the best idea. Right now there isn't much ice in the runnel on the first pitch, but that is not too much of a problem. Oct 2, 2013