Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Kelly Lindsay
Page Views: 1,359 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Apr 1, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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A really cool overhanging crack with a variety of jams. The further underneath you start the harder it is.


This problem is a bit tricky to find, from Johnny Bigmouth then it is about thirty feet to the right in a small boulder cave.


Couple of pads should be sufficient


Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Really a fun little problem...not included in any of the guidebooks and quite unique for SB bouldering. It would be great if this one got climbed more as it could use more ascents to clean it up (I'll do my part!).

As for getting there: find the "Face boulder" first. In the Bob Banks book, the first boulder at the Kelly's Hill area (with problems #1-3, all named "Face") is what I'm calling the Face boulder. 5.11 Crack is located in a jumble of boulders behind the Face boulder (i.e. away from the side with all the "Face" climbs). Hope that description and the photo help...go do a few laps! Jun 26, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Kelly Lindsay and I cleaned, climbed, and christened this crack during (I think) the fall of 2005 or 2006. Kelly did it first, then me. We can't definitively prove we "found" the climb, but since Kelly knows the Mouth better than most mortals, I'm willing to bet Kelly's FA claim counts for something. Great climb, and painful to boot. Jun 27, 2010
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA