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Routes in McCullough Gulch

Canary Couloir, The T M2-3
Claim Jumper T WI3 M3
Gold Miner's Daughter T WI3 M2-3
Noxious Fumes T M2-3 R
Quandary Couloir T
Tommy Knocker T
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Taylor B. & Josh H.
Page Views: 2,232 total, 24/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Mar 31, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Please respect the mining claims in this area. Details

Description

P1. WI3 M3. Climb up the mixed runnel into the big, right-facing corner and belay in a protected alcove with rock gear. The gear can be a bit hard to find.

P2. WI3 M3. Pull out of the right-facing corner and climb up the slabby ice into a chimney that protects OK.

Location

Park at the McCullough Gulch TH. The approach is about +1 hour. Hike up the road, once at the mining claim you should be able to see the route at about the 12,000 foot level. DO NOT TRESPASS in this area or you will be shot. Keep hiking on the road past the mining claim till the road turns into a trail and there are no more no trespassing sings. Bushwhack down to some beaver ponds and skirt them along the west side to reach the base of the fun scree and talus slope. At this point, ascend up the slope eastward angling towards the climb.

To descend off the climb, traverse east and go down the prominent, boxed couloir, beware of avy conditions in this area.

Protection

A light alpine rack with pitons and 3-4 16cm & 13cm ice screws. Not much pro on the route, but it's there when you need it.

Photos

GLD
  WI2- M5
GLD  
  WI2- M5
On 2014-11-22, we had about 5 ice sticks total on the route. Spindrift was pouring down the entire time. Our experience was nothing like the photos (I wish there was that much ice), and our rating of WI2-, M5 probably reflects the difference of ice.

There were no 'no trespassing' signs and we approached east of the beaver ponds. The descent gully looks like a fun ski. There was an icefall a short way up the descent gully on the right that wasn't formed up well (we were tired, and we didn't want to knock it down), I imagine it would be in nice when Claim Jumper is in nicely. Nov 22, 2014
OReid
Denver, CO
  WI3 M3
OReid   Denver, CO
  WI3 M3
Great route! Fun solid climbing.

As of yesterday, 10/7/2013, there were three nice long pitches of climbing (550') with plenty of ice. The protection was quite good but sometimes a bit tricky. Bring a few pins. The descent gully was iced up enough that we opted to do one rappel and a pitch of belayed down climbing. Perhaps overly cautious, but I think warranted given the incredible amount of loose rock.

Also, while I don't recommend trespassing, we met Walter, the guy who works the small family mining claim near the trailhead, and he's a very nice guy. I wouldn't hesitate to knock on his door if you need to call out for rescue services, or if you just want an interesting chat. Oct 8, 2013