Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: John Sherman
Page Views: 1,408 total · 13/month
Shared By: JNE on Mar 31, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This is a spectacular and burly sandbag. Start at the very back where the crack meets the chimney, stepping off the boulder to the left to gain the first sinker hand. The first ten feet will warm you up for the rest, which is unrelenting until you can stand up over the final lip. This is a world class rock climb involving a distinct sequence of wild moves up a striking line on good rock. Climbs like this don't get near enough respect. Tape up and get after it because this is one of the best burly cracks anywhere.

Location

The obvious roof crack.

Protection

The ideal setup would be a couple of pads, a spotter, and a belayer. Boulder the roof with a spot and TR the upper section. For a "directional", leave a long tail on the rope and use the spotter as a second belayer in the cave. This will keep you out of the cactus if you fall at or over the first lip. Bolts up top, but bring some slings for equalizing and extending.

Photos