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FA: F. A. Mark Mcquarrie & Paul Anderson, 1965
> Wasatch Range
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
A wide crack that requires alternating between delicate smears on the face and high-stepping, power-underclings on the crack while trying to find good stances to place large gear.
Starting from the 2nd pitch of Split Pants you'll be able to get a hand-size piece in above your belay before you get into the meat of the off width. Step up and place a large piece (I only had a #6 that was tipped out). From there you can either layback or use some crimps and smear the face. I chose the latter. Proceed to work up the crack until it slightly narrows and you can place a final piece in order to pull around the corner. From that stance you can either place a BigBro or a TCU. Work up the chimney a bit more and you can find a nice 00 placement. From that point the climbing eases as you head up a gully until you reach some foliage. Look out to the left and you'll see a set of chain anchors. Pull up onto the slab and do some easy friction moves and then follow the rap for Pebbles and Bambam. Note that these are not the P&B anchors and a single 70m will not get you down to Beckey's.
Hike to the base of the dihedrals and then do the first two pitches (great strung together as a long pitch) of Split Pants. Stop at the piton and build a natural anchor. P3 of Split Pants continues to the right, the Needle's Eye goes straight up the squeeze chimney and Split Decision follows left side of the wide crack.
Standard Wasatch rack for Split Pants and up to 8" for the crack. You can also place small TCUs (00 and 1 Metolius) after rounding the top of the crack)