PRINT: Rock Climb The Velvet Tongue, Red Rocks

The Velvet Tongue

5.12+, Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 4 from 23 votes
FA: FFA Jerry Handren and ?
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velv… > Texas Wall / W Velvet…

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This route, along with Jet Stream, is one of the best routes I have climbed recently--bizarre, technical, and intricate. Be prepared to scratch your head a bit. Check out Jerry Handren's new guide for some great photos of unhearlded local badass Tom Moulin on pitches 4 and 5. Begin with the first 3 pitches of Texas Tower Direct(described elsewhere on Mtn. Project), which gains the base of the obvious left facing corner. P4: A small piece or two gains the first bolt, and then it's all bolts from there. Lots of 5.12 bits, but definitive cruxes leaving the corner at the first bolt, and regaining the corner 20' above. P5: A short pitch. Boulder off the belay to gain a cool traverse left along the lip of the roof. Pop over, and climb easily up to the belay. P6: Didn't climb this bit, but apparently a short .11+ traverse leads right into the last pitch of Texas Tower Direct.

Location

On Texas Tower, to the right of the Epinephrine chimneys.

Protection

Lots of draws (especially for pitch 3 of TTD), and a single set of cams to 3 inches. You can make do with a little less if you're so inclined. NOTE: if you rap with a single 70 you will be forced to down solo some delicate 5.8 to get to the anchor above pitch one, so a tag line isn't a bad idea.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

All time pitch!

P4 of Velvet Tongue.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO

The crux getting back into the corner is unlike anything I've ever experienced climbing before. Truly unique and super rad, though really really perplexing. I can't even rate the move as there's not really power to it or anything, just really weird. Again, super unique and very fun. There's also a bolt in your chest so the fall is nothing. Nov 5, 2010

Kevin Volkening

Amazing route in a spectacular setting. This baby barely goes! I agree that getting back to the corner was one of the crazier moves I've ever attempted, but I think the moves leaving the corner could be even harder. In my case I settled more like on a move rather than "moves". Any idea if the lateral dyno was the right mindset? Mar 18, 2012

blakeherrington

Getting back INTO the corner was weird and difficult, but getting OUT of the corner, that was hard as nails! This route is awesome! Apr 9, 2012

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.12+

I had a harder time with getting back in than out. If you do it right, getting out is relatively simple tech stemming. (definitely not a dyno) Getting back in is wild. Also, P3 is way more fun if you runner all the bolts on the first half of the pitch long. Mar 28, 2017

michalm

I remember it being pretty hard to clip the first couple of bolts on P5, and the rock is glassy. Careful not to asshat your belayer. Oct 17, 2021

Nat Bailey
Squamish, BC

5.12+

Mega vibes. I could be wrong, but I think you need 18 draws to link the entire third pitch, accounting for a draw on the anchor and extending one placement. We brought 16 and ran out, having to stop at the intermediate anchor. The Velvet Tongue is a special, special pitch. Feb 22, 2023