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Violent Stems

WI5 M6, Mixed, Ice, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: 1/9/10: Jim Lawyer, Neal Knitel
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > Northeast > Silver Lake > Summit Cliff

Description

An amazing route, sustained, high-quality. Climb thin ice on slab to ledge 30' up, then stem violently up the unrelenting corner to top. Crux at the bottom of the corner where it overhangs.

The cliff faces south, but the ice deep in the corner is usually good.

Location

At the right end of the Summit Cliff, the terrain rises steeply uphill. Where it levels, there is a ledge that shoots out left, breaking the cliff into a lower and upper half. (Walking right from here leads to Twilight Falls.) This route begins at the right end of this ledge below an acute right-facing corner 30' up.

Protection

Full rock rack to 3", plus screws.