PRINT: Rock Climb Out Ridin' Fences, Central Oregon

Out Ridin' Fences

5.11+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
FA: Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 4/06
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

This route is super-neglected. The crux is mostly cranking hard on fingerlocks, so go get it! Climb splitter fingers and thin hands to a rest. From here figure out the funky sequence to gain a section of Wartley's Revenge-esque jugs. Finish by firing delicate and technical climbing up the crux finger and tips crack.

Location

This is pretty much the furthest right route on the Main Wall. There are others further, but they are of a very different character and not as classic. Hike past Time Bomb and locate the splitter crack surrounded by tiny seams. Scramble up and right to access the spacious belay ledge.

Protection

A double rack from BD. 0.75 to green C3 plus a 1 and 2 should be more than adequate to stitch this thing up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR

5.11c

Great route, can definitely be climbed safely with a double rack. Save a .5 or metolius orange size for your last piece, and use your purple metolius/green C3 sized pieces after the juggy sequence, that's the only part that feels punchy. Sep 9, 2014

Chris Sepic
Bend, OR

This thing is awesome, get on it! I found the lower crux to be slightly cryptic. Nov 3, 2016