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Android-Moby Dick link-up

5.8, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Description

1. From the GT ledge, climb about halfway up the left side of the large pinnacle. Go up and left until you can easily traverse left 25 or 30 feet under the ceiling to a short, blocky, right-facing corner. Go over the roof near the corner, then trend right, passing some white rock, to a belay under a large roof. 5.8

2. Traverse straight left about 20 feet, go up a bit, then take the obvious hand traverse left under a roof to a V notch in the ceiling. (The acute shape of the notch makes it easy to recognize) Climb up through the notch (crux). Finish straight up.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Location

The climb begins from the GT ledge. From the base of the Twilight Zone corner, the pinnacle which is your starting point is about 125 feet or so to the right as you face the rock.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack, include doubles of #3 Camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Simon in the v-notch
[Hide Photo] Simon in the v-notch