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Routes in G Crags

A Frayed Not T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baggage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
By the Seat of Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holey Ghost, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mitten, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Wing and a Prayer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Reef Knot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Slab family Ross and Son. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ben F. & Maura H. 3-20-2010
Page Views: 44 total · 0/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Mar 25, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Pitch 1- Climb face and an intermediate crack system, past the left side of a block, past a ledge, to a smaller stance at good cams & nuts.
5.7r 225'

Pitch 2- Continue up steepening rock, taking advantage of all possible protection in the mostly closed crack. Tricky slab and face climbing leads over the bulge to the left of a large, pink block. Continue up past a ledge and easier ground to the start of a prominent groove. Belay from cams.
5.8R 225'

Pitch 3- Easy climbing up the groove leads to ledges above. 4th class 220'

Pitch 4- Up and slightly left for a very long pitch with no protection. Mostly 5.3 but with a short 5.5 bulge. (some simul-climbing involved) Belay on low angle ledges.
5.5x 260' (The summit register for Holey Ghost was found on top of this pitch)

Pitch 5- Move the belay right a hundred feet or so and climb the left side of the summit slab up left leaning holes and then onto the front and easier climbing leading to a belay in a groove below the top.
5.5r 210'

A couple hundred feet of easy scrambling lead to the summit and another register.

To descend, downclimb to the top of pitch 5 and down 4th class territory on the front of the slab to reach rappel anchors for the route "On a Wing and a Prayer". Three 60 meter rappels reach the bottom.

Location

From the mouth of Uneva Mine Canyon, follow the trail north along the front of the slabs for a short distance to a side canyon on the left. Follow this small side canyon and as it turns left at the base of the slab, there is a cairn leaning against the slab. This is the start of the route.

Protection

We had a set of cams from 3/4" to 4" Some extra medium sizes would have been nice. We also brought a set of stoppers which were also very useful.

We did not leave any bolts or fixed protection on this route. We did however use the bolted anchors for On a Wing and a Prayer to descend. Thanks Paul!

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
...Well Ben glad you cleared that up ... Close shave! Apr 7, 2010

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