Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: June 2008
Page Views: 3,683 total · 34/month
Shared By: Nicole BI on Mar 24, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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nice mantle about halfway up


far right of the 4 routes


8 bolts to Fixe Shuts


Fixe shuts are dangerously worn and need to be replaced. May 4, 2015
George Hayduke  
FIXED SHUTS ARE DANGEROUSLY WORN ( HALFWAY THROUGH) and there are no bolt hangers/ chains . or quick links to bypass the fixed gear. Its my recommendation that this route should not be climbed unit these anchors are replaced. Jul 14, 2016
I happened to be near Malibu Creek with the kids and decided to jump on the routes on Toddler Terrace without checking the beta here. After watching group after group climb, top rope, rappel, lower off of this climb my turn came up. Lets just say that after reaching the anchor I took a quick picture (posted here) and opted to down climb past a few bolts and head over to the next anchor left. The anchor is flexing at this point. I'm from the San Francisco area and was only there for a day, but if any locals would like to swap those anchors out, I'm happy to donate another set. Nov 28, 2016
Irvine, CA
AngelosK   Irvine, CA
Does anybody know whether the worn anchors were replaced? Thanks Mar 14, 2017
Anchors still heavily worn as seen in photo May 2, 2017
Just went earlier today and the anchors are even further worn down. Can't believe I didn't check these posts. Probably the same ones since 2015. Dangerously dangerously thin. Apr 13, 2018
Chris Bassett
Los Angeles, CA
Chris Bassett   Los Angeles, CA
Anchors were replaced (not by me, but the route developer) 4/15/2018. No more heavily worn shuts, chain and screwlinks now I think. Apr 17, 2018
There is some confusion here. The rightmost route on the terrace has 8 bolts, is the longest of the pack (85 feet), a little bit harder and a little bit more runout then the others. Anchor at the top is super-solid. The pictures here refer to the second route from the right whose anchors are still worn half-way through (which is 6 bolts ~50 feet). Nobody replaced the anchors (on the second rightmost route), probably Chris Bassett just climbed, correctly, the right-most route and inferred somebody replaced the anchors. It must be said that all the routes here are very similar so this is probably where the confusion originates. Jul 1, 2018
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
there was no purported confusion. the 2016 anchor photo here showed the previous worn shuts that had no chains, which had been replaced. the presently worn anchor atop Banana Phone (2nd route from the right) consists of grooved biner hooks dangling on the ends of chains. present Grabnabber anchor still solid Jul 20, 2018