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Cemetery Gates

5.10, Trad, TR,  Avg: 3 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > E Side SD > Palisades SP > Harkor Tower

Description

Cemetery Gates is on the far right side of Harkor Tower. The climb starts at the base of a large tree. Climb up 15 feet on the large flake/pillar which should be slung carefully to prevent zippering the next two placements. Awkwardly stand on top of the pillar and get a small nut up high and right. Climb the crux section on small edges, and place a second small nut to protect a few more small edges before reaching jugs and an obvious widening crack.

Widgets

Wrap the pillar with webbing at 15 feet, this won't stop a groundfall if you blow it at the crux and the wires fail, but it will stop the first nuts from zippering out in the case of a fall. Once on top of the pillar finagle a #3 stopper then high-step and place a wonky #5 stopper. Summon the fortitude to pull the crux then move up on easier climbing with safe gear placements.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Smolnisky
Custer, SD
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb to lead. If you can reach it, you can protect the crux standing on the pillar. Fun Climb on Lead or TR Sep 22, 2011