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March of the Gumby Bears

5.12a, Trad, 105 ft,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Mike and John Hansen 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Altered States Gully
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

  1. March of the Gummi Bears...this may be the stupidest name in all of the Wasatch. Perhaps March of the Gumby Bears would have been more appreciated? This variation shares the same easy crack start with Magic Circus, March of the Gummy Bears, and Proscenium. Place a solid #1 camalot in a pod about 25 feet up this starting crack, climb above it a few feet, and then begin the delicate slab traverse right to Gumby's  first bolt(new). At the above roof, get your paws into the undercling (clip new bolt #2), and execute a unique boulder problem to reach the flat edge above and about 5 feet to the left. Static or dynamic...both have been done! Now merge with Gummi's and complete the original and fun finish. After the final bolt at the top of the slab a crack appears where one can place a nice 2 camalot in a squarish pod and finish at the anchors shared by all 7!!! routes on this wall . Slab Bouldering!!!

Location

Shares the start with Magic Circus and Proscenium. Climb up the low angle broken crack 25 feet, traverse right 10 feet, now follow the bolts- heading for the seam/crack that divides the top of the slab.

Protection

A perfect #1 camalot before you traverse right out of the Magic Circus crack, then bolts(6?), then a #2 camalot  at the top in a square pod in the seam/crack. 70 m rope is best.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bheller
SL UT
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Yet another reason to tour the Altered States slab circuit...the crux is so unique, you surely will not soon forget it! Mar 23, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] This is one of the coolest names for an LCC route...
Opinions opinions... Mar 24, 2010