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Third Millennium

5.13d, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Monastery > Vestibule

Description

A groundbreaking ascent in its day (1996), this route remains as one the Front Range's proudest test-pieces and perhaps one of the best of the grade in the country. Begin matched in an undercling and immediately fire into the hardest single moves of the climb, involving a series of crimps and a couple tight pockets. Above the fourth bolt, fire directly into the routes redpoint crux by continuing straight up through an engaging maze of gastons with worsening feet to the fifth bolt. Many-a-hard men and women have been thwarted by this evil tick-tacking. A newer option at the fourth bolt has also emerged that trends hard right to a rest and a considerably easier sequence to the fifth bolt.

Either path you shall choose, above the fifth bolt you will find relative relief amongst larger holds- however, a final compression crux guards the chains, which can (and has) broken the hearts of the pumped and weary!!!

The jaw-dropping aesthetics, interesting movement and long history of this climb are hard to beat. Like I mentioned before, I would undoubtedly rank Third Millennium amongst the best of the grade in the country.

Location

This is in the center of the NW wall of Magical Mystery Tower, immediately right of "The Quickening" and just left of 'Grand Ol Opry'.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 BA.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A legendary rock climb. <br>
Keith Ladzinski photo.<br>
[Hide Photo] A legendary rock climb. Keith Ladzinski photo.
Into the sky.
[Hide Photo] Into the sky.
A brief respite before the second crux section.
[Hide Photo] A brief respite before the second crux section.
Michael Morrin on Third Millenium.
[Hide Photo] Michael Morrin on Third Millenium.
Coiling up for the first crux.
[Hide Photo] Coiling up for the first crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The trending right method is certainly the way to go on this climb. Good holds and fun moves bypass some wicked awkwardness, and certainly does not drop the grade to c. Any way you choose to climb this pitch it is considerably harder than its friend, The Quickening. Jul 10, 2010
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.13d
[Hide Comment] Sorry I sandbagged you, Tank, but you know me. I get off on heinous little holds!! Hope you sent today. Cheers. Jul 24, 2010