To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
High Man on the Shmotem Pole
5.11-,
Sport, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 13
votes
FA: Jon Ruland, Mike Dudley, Doso
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Lower Devil's C…
> Lower Devil's E…
> Shmotem Pole
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at:
queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website –
theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page –
facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
Arete climbing at its finest, and it just keeps going and going. Follows the prominent arete on the right side of the Shmotem Pole from base to summit. Well protected, yet with enough space between the bolts to keep your attention. The first pitch ends on a ledge 15 feet to the right of the second belay on The Shmotem Pole. The second pitch is still a project and will probably go at about 5.12-.
UPDATE: This pitch is now considered an open project. However, there may still be a couple bolt hangers missing. If you want to try this route, please PM me (Jonathan Ruland) and I'll give you the hangers. They are painted to roughly match the rock color of LDE, like all the other hangers on this route.
NOTE: most of the rock is solid but don't get on this route thinking you can yard on anything and it will hold you.
Descent: The most straight-forward descent would be to trail a rope and do a 2-rope rappel straight down the arete to the base of the Shmotem Pole. Alternatively, if you have a 70-meter rope you can rappel down the south side of the Shmotem Pole to the pillar and scramble off.
Linkup: traverse through the chimney after pitch 1 and link this climb with the last pitch on The Shmotem Pole to top out on the summit of a really cool formation.
Location
The striking arete on the right (southwest) side of the Shmotem Pole. Starts 15 feet to the right of The Shmotem Pole standard route.
Protection
14 bolts, rap anchors.
Vegas
CAUTION!!!! This is a new route and we did as much cleaning as we could, however it is very possible that lots more will come off. Make sure your belayer has a helmet please!
With that said you can link the first pitch of the High Man with the second pitch of the original route. Enjoy the climb guys its ultra fun!
Big thanks to Geir and Marcy for the drill and all the help. You guys are the best! Mar 21, 2010
Pasadena, CA
PAYSON
Tucson/DMR
Congrats and thanks to Jon and Mike for their tremendous efforts in cleaning and bolting this stunning arete!! I can tell you that they spent many cold, windy days diligently working on this route and credit is certainly due.
Also, thanks to you guys for sharing the route before the second pitch has been completed so that others may enjoy it. You guys are terrific!
For everyone else, please respect the second pitch as a project until it has been completed. You can continue to the top via The Shmotem Pole or rap the route. Mar 22, 2010
Tucson/DMR
Tucson/DMR
Tucson, AZ
Rock seemed fine for LDE. I didn't pull off any holds either.
Can't wait for the top pitch. Apr 27, 2010
Tucson, AZ
Tempe AZ,
Tempe, AZ
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Tucson, AZ
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sooo...the 2nd pitch, for those curious...All the hangers are on this so I am assuming it has been done by now.
Great setting and wonderful location add dramatically to this pitch. Sadly the rock quality greatly diminishes by the 4th bolt. Looks like someone tried to glue a few holds, but it's like 50years worth of nachos glued to the wall.
9-10 bolts 100'
11d if you're tall
12a if you're opposite tall Dec 3, 2015
Tucson, AZ
and i agree, it is unfortunate that the rock quality deteriorates so much as this route has amazing position and would be classic otherwise. Dec 3, 2015
Tucson/DMR
Tucson, AZ
Mesa