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Routes in 04. Rigor Wall

Alaskan Vacation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Asian School Girls T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bully, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Of Noon T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cullen's Rattle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fat City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In A Silent Way T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Need of Repair T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Break T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mud Bucket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump-kin T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rigor Mortise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tastes Like Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thru-Mortise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Hugger T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trick or Treat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 812 total, 9/month
Shared By: Sam Stephens on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

This is the large chimney that the approach trail comes out in front of at the Simpsons/Bovine wall. Go up chunky corner and work up the short slab into the chimney. Work up the chimney and out to a block then around and to the top.

Protection

Trees for anchors, no bolts.

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
+1 on Paul's comments, a #4 cam is very comforting going around the block exiting the chimney section. Great climb and though the gear is not all perfect there is a lot more of it than I was expecting and the climbing is very secure. A great lead! Jul 29, 2014
P. Sully
  5.7 PG13
P. Sully  
  5.7 PG13
The gear in the chimney is not great. Before you get to the roof, you can get a decent #0 purple TCU in the right wall.

you can get good cams in the roof but it has a hollow sound. I always put on in each side of the big detached block that forms the roof before I exit.

Fun route to TR but a bit spooky for a 5.7 leader. Jan 15, 2013