Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 883 total · 8/month
Shared By: Sam Stephens on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

This is the large chimney that the approach trail comes out in front of at the Simpsons/Bovine wall. Go up chunky corner and work up the short slab into the chimney. Work up the chimney and out to a block then around and to the top.

Protection

Trees for anchors, no bolts.

Photos

P. Sully
  5.7 PG13
P. Sully  
  5.7 PG13
The gear in the chimney is not great. Before you get to the roof, you can get a decent #0 purple TCU in the right wall.

you can get good cams in the roof but it has a hollow sound. I always put on in each side of the big detached block that forms the roof before I exit.

Fun route to TR but a bit spooky for a 5.7 leader. Jan 15, 2013
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
 
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
 
+1 on Paul's comments, a #4 cam is very comforting going around the block exiting the chimney section. Great climb and though the gear is not all perfect there is a lot more of it than I was expecting and the climbing is very secure. A great lead! Jul 29, 2014