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Devil Doll
5.12d,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 41
votes
FA: Porter Jarrard 1991
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Kaymoor
> 1. The Hole
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Climb LAB to the 5th bolt, but instead of going right on vicious underclings, diverge left to a crimp rail with horrendous feet. Heels and toes work well to keep you from falling. After some burlyness (I campused quite a few moves), pull onto the headwall and clip from a stellar jug. Keep it together for a couple more difficult moves before rendezvousing with the chains of Mojo.
Location
Left side of the glory hole. Start same as LAB
Protection
8 bolts to bolted anchor.
![Matt Fanning on the lower crux of Devil Doll]()
[Hide Photo] Matt Fanning on the lower crux of Devil Doll
![Pascal clipping with style. (Photo by: Brendan Terrence Smith)]()
[Hide Photo] Pascal clipping with style. (Photo by: Brendan Terrence Smith)
![Devil Doll + Beta by @drawingsfordirtbags]()
[Hide Photo] Devil Doll + Beta by @drawingsfordirtbags
![Pascal getting into the business. (Photo by: Brendan Terrence Smith)]()
[Hide Photo] Pascal getting into the business. (Photo by: Brendan Terrence Smith)
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