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Routes in The Glory Hole

Against the Grain S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blood Raid S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloody Mushroom Stamp S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Devil Doll S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
In the Flat Field S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lactic Acid Bath S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Massacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mojo Hand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skull Fuck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skull Fuck Direct Finish S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Yowsah S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 2,338 total · 23/month
Shared By: James Otey on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

For being among the easiest of the routes at the glory hole, this rig presents quite the series of challenges. Start off by climbing on a less than ideal rock-quality face, making your way around the right side of a large projecting tooth. Hunker down in an awkward position right below the roof to get ready for the business. Reach up and grab hold of a large flake with sloping jugs. Work all the way out to the lip of the roof and make a big move out right to a slopey crimp. Most people use the patented feet-cutting bro-burl to hold the swing. The deft use of a heel-toe cam on the flake allows for matching of the crimp and eventual passage to the first headwall. Stay relaxed and rest up for the second crux on a jug sidepull. From here, make your way up to the second roof and pull it using pure dyno-burl or nasty good steeps technique. From here traverse left on jugs to finish up on the same anchors as Blood Raid.

Location

Right side of the glory hole- the right route of the three (LAB, Blood Raid, Skull Fuck) that go straight out the roof.

Protection

7 bolts, fixed draws, bolted anchor.

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