Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 2,399 total · 23/month
Shared By: James Otey on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

For being among the easiest of the routes at the glory hole, this rig presents quite the series of challenges. Start off by climbing on a less than ideal rock-quality face, making your way around the right side of a large projecting tooth. Hunker down in an awkward position right below the roof to get ready for the business. Reach up and grab hold of a large flake with sloping jugs. Work all the way out to the lip of the roof and make a big move out right to a slopey crimp. Most people use the patented feet-cutting bro-burl to hold the swing. The deft use of a heel-toe cam on the flake allows for matching of the crimp and eventual passage to the first headwall. Stay relaxed and rest up for the second crux on a jug sidepull. From here, make your way up to the second roof and pull it using pure dyno-burl or nasty good steeps technique. From here traverse left on jugs to finish up on the same anchors as Blood Raid.

Location

Right side of the glory hole- the right route of the three (LAB, Blood Raid, Skull Fuck) that go straight out the roof.

Protection

7 bolts, fixed draws, bolted anchor.

Photos

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