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Karabore

5.9, Sport, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > Croatia > NP of Paklenica > Anica kuk > Stup G17-20

Description

One of the more popular moderates to the top of Stup.  It has a wide range of styles, including chimneys, stems, steep pockets, and a full pitch of face climbing at the end.  Well bolted, with an easy approach and descent.

To find it, follow the trail to Stup, then go right around the base of the apron and up to a little alcove with a tree.  There is a nameplate for this climb, so you can't get too lost!

P1: From the nameplate, angle a bit left up a slab to a high first bolts.  Figure this out from the ground as there are other routes quite close to the left and right.  From the first bolt, pull on surprisingly steep but juggy moves for 15', then gain the large groove / chimney that ascends for hundreds of feet.  After 3-4 bolts, things get confusing as there are bolts all over.  Stay in the groove.  Find a decent anchor station after 120'.

P2. Start with some chimney and stemming up the main crack system, then 50' of very easy climbing, and then the crux.  3 closely spaced bolts protect the steep crux with holds on the left and right side of the crack.  Belay just above in a super cool water "pod" with an anchor station.

P3. Hop out of the pod and head slightly right to the first and second bolt, then do a cool finger traverse hard right back to the main crack system.  Easy terrain to the top.  You can also go straight up the face for the this route, at a bit harder grade.

Two single-rope raps get you to the ground.  A 60m will JUST barely make it.

Protection

All three pitches are well bolted and have good belay stations with fixed anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

East Face of Stup
[Hide Photo] East Face of Stup
Beginning of Karabore
[Hide Photo] Beginning of Karabore

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

oretro
 
[Hide Comment] To echo the comment posted for Mosoraski, route-finding can be a challenge. Several routes on this part of Stup are extremely close to one another, and since this route is the easiest in its group, you may find yourself climbing a bolt line that is much harder than expected. Sep 25, 2016
David Goldstein
Chiang Mai, TH
 
[Hide Comment] While the Paklenica guide book says this route is fully bolted, Pitch 2 (which in the guidebook is actually listed as 2 pitches) is quite run out in the easier bottom section, with about a 30 foot section (10 meters) having no bolts. Sure, climbing is relatively easy, but the move to the first bolt after the run out is definitely not a give-me, especially for shorter climbers. I brought only quick draws with me as indicated by the guidebook, and felt extremely at risk for a dangerous fall on several occasions. I would definitely recommend bringing a few pieces to protect in this section, as with most of the "bolted" climbs in Paklenica! Oct 22, 2020
Peter W
Salt Lake City
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Description is pretty accurate. If doing as described here (linking P1-2 as described in the book) the P1 belay is fine but not the most comfy.

Despite the number of routes in the area I didn’t find this to be difficult to route-find. Stay in the crack/groove/chimney and it should be obvious. If you only use the bolts there are some runout sections. I only felt like a piece was really nice to have above the three bolts exiting the large pod, which is mainly steeper crack/stemming. Various sizes accepted there, I used a #1.

A photo-topo is here
bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/u… Oct 14, 2023