To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Karabore
5.9,
Sport, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.7 from 9
votes
FA: unknown
International
> Europe
> Croatia
> NP of Paklenica
> Anica kuk
> Stup G17-20
Description
One of the more popular moderates to the top of Stup. It has a wide range of styles, including chimneys, stems, steep pockets, and a full pitch of face climbing at the end. Well bolted, with an easy approach and descent.
To find it, follow the trail to Stup, then go right around the base of the apron and up to a little alcove with a tree. There is a nameplate for this climb, so you can't get too lost!
P1: From the nameplate, angle a bit left up a slab to a high first bolts. Figure this out from the ground as there are other routes quite close to the left and right. From the first bolt, pull on surprisingly steep but juggy moves for 15', then gain the large groove / chimney that ascends for hundreds of feet. After 3-4 bolts, things get confusing as there are bolts all over. Stay in the groove. Find a decent anchor station after 120'.
P2. Start with some chimney and stemming up the main crack system, then 50' of very easy climbing, and then the crux. 3 closely spaced bolts protect the steep crux with holds on the left and right side of the crack. Belay just above in a super cool water "pod" with an anchor station.
P3. Hop out of the pod and head slightly right to the first and second bolt, then do a cool finger traverse hard right back to the main crack system. Easy terrain to the top. You can also go straight up the face for the this route, at a bit harder grade.
Two single-rope raps get you to the ground. A 60m will JUST barely make it.
Protection
All three pitches are well bolted and have good belay stations with fixed anchors
Chiang Mai, TH
Salt Lake City
Despite the number of routes in the area I didn’t find this to be difficult to route-find. Stay in the crack/groove/chimney and it should be obvious. If you only use the bolts there are some runout sections. I only felt like a piece was really nice to have above the three bolts exiting the large pod, which is mainly steeper crack/stemming. Various sizes accepted there, I used a #1.
A photo-topo is here
bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/u… Oct 14, 2023