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Routes in Arrowhead

Deborah T M3-4
Hourglass Couloir, The M4
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: ???? First Winter Ascent: Gil Weiss, Scotty Nelson, March 2010
Page Views: 4,538 total, 48/month
Shared By: Gil Weiss on Mar 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is the obvious couloir splitting the south face of Arrowhead. It is similar to Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker in its legnth and difficulty.

Either climb the West Gully out of Black Lake, or hike up and around to the South Face of Arrowhead and head straight for the base of the couloir. There could be some ice in spring with proper conditions. Expect mostly snow climbing with 4-5 mixed steps/constrictions, ranging from M2-4. This is about 5 pitches with a 60 meter rope, but it's best to simulclimb. The last part of the couloir splits into a left and right exit option. Take the right to keep the difficulty low, or go for the left option which is a steep rock chimney. Scramble the remaining ridge to the summit of Arrowhead...because summits matter!

See the rock climbing section for Arrowhead to obtain descent info. Classic!


It is on the South face of Arrowhead in Glacier Gorge.


A single rack, slings, ice tools, and crampons.