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Routes in The Middle Way

One Hand Clapping T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Karl Kiser & Alex Sfakianos, Spring 2007
Page Views: 47 total, 1/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Mar 18, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

(1) Follow a steep crack system up about 15 feet and then trend right to the bolted anchor (about 55 feet).

(2) Climb the face a little to the right of the two bolts but finish a little left of the right weakness at the top of the formation (about 110 feet--see comment below). There is a bolted anchor and chains at the end of the pitch.

Location

Walk up the talus almost to the notch which drops off to the east face of the Tridents. Turn east and walk slightly uphill to the west face of the formation. Follow the rock downhill to where it drops off about 10 feet. The climb starts in the shallow right facing crack system just right of the drop. There is a sawed stump of a dead tree near the base of the climb.

The top of the climb finishes on the rectangular block shown on the beta picture previously posted. The view of Upper La Cueva Canyon from this belay is quite good.

www.mountainproject.com/images/15/25/105961525_large_2563c1.jpg

Protection

Mixed route, standard rack with a good selection of 24" runners, wires and smaller cams. Large cams are not necessary. One should carry a triple sling for the small cam placement, on the left, between the two protection bolts on the second pitch.

Photos

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The second pitch is probably 5.8 but you will work for the gear (which is still good). One of the few pitches in the Sandias I have done with a chickenhead and nice plates. Overall a good climb. Jun 6, 2011
Karl Kiser  
 
We used double 50m ropes on the first ascent. Later we added the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch and the protection bolts on the second pitch.

The second pitch is ca. 110 feet. A single 70m rope or double 50m ropes should be used for the rap. Mar 18, 2010