Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,146 total · 11/month
Shared By: Andrew R on Mar 17, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Radical sidepulling, pinching and crimping up an overhanging wall. Begin atop a short detached pillar and make technical, demanding moves past several bolts to the ledge at the top. Sustained! Might feel a bit reachy in spots. This route receives an 11d/12a rating in the Falcon guide, so take that for what it's worth.

Location

Near the middle of the wall to the right of the massive left-trending flake, start atop a large detached pillar and go straight up. Rap the route, or top belay the second and walk off.

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

danielroca
Prescott, AZ
 
danielroca   Prescott, AZ
 
12a is a lot more accurate for this route. The bottom requires one dynamic move to a side pull (accurately a 5.11+ move) which leads to more sidepulls before disappearing into extremely thin pinches and crimps. Feet are even trickier. From the bottom the route looks like an 11c/d, but once on the rock, perspective changes very quickly. Jul 5, 2011