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Routes in Band M (Opened Dec 2017)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: steve larson
Page Views: 794 total, 8/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details

Description

Well, I am surprised no one have posted up this classic. An absolute kicker climb. Powerful and technical.

Location

Above the ramp on Standard Route is an obvious big overhanging flake. Hard underclings and a very tough move at the end. From atop p1 a thin crack goes to the top.

Tom Callaghan's legendary Gale Force 10+ XX is the left hand finish.

Protection

small and big

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
It's not the best but pretty decent I think. The undercling is pretty hard and the exit move in my mind is the crux. It's a long reach to a fair jam
I think it's just awesome Mar 23, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
John, I've had friends get on this and describe the rock as less than awesome. How hard do you think it is to get established in the flake proper after the underclinging part? Mar 23, 2010